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The Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2004 is the jewel in the crown of the Domaine René Engel. The Domaine represents one of the most important references in Burgundy: its founder, Renè Engel, was a mentor for winegrowing in Burgundy in the pre-war period, as well as a professor at the Faculty of Oenology and Viticulture in Dijon for 35 years and one of the founders of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin.
After his retirement in 1949, his son Pierre succeeded him until his death in 1971. His son Philippe then took over the reins of the Domaine at only 26 years of age, under the valuable guidance of his grandfather René. In the 1990s Philippe gained considerable fame, developing confidence and skill: his style included light extractions, preferring to emphasise the natural qualities of the fruit, supported by a judicious use of new oak (rarely more than 50%), except for Grand Cru in exceptional vintages.
The wines were fine and elegant, deceptively accessible when young but capable of long ageing. When Philippe's untimely death occurred in 2004, there were no heirs available and the precious Domaine was sold to Francois Pinault, former owner of Château Latour, and renamed Domaine d'Eugenie.
Philippe Engel's range included five wines: a village Vosne-Romanée from numerous parcels totalling 2.5 hectares; a premier cru Les Brûlées (1.05 hectares) from old vines, the youngest of which was planted in 1956 by a combination of René and Pierre Engel who somehow failed to bring their rows together; and three grands crus, Echézeaux (0.55 hectares), Clos Vougeot (1.37 hectares) and Grands Echézeaux (0.50 hectares).
The Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is the most important wine as well as the last one produced by the Engel family: in this 2004 vintage, the wine wears a ruby colour with clear orange reflections. The nose is chameleon-like and constantly changes in the glass as the minutes pass: iodine notes at the opening are followed by aromas of liquorice, black tea, spices. A start with a bang is followed by a slightly waning phase, which recovers on the finish with returns of spices and herbs. The sip is full, elegant, with tannins that are still wine but well amalgamated.
Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2004 from Domaine René Engel is a rare pearl of Burgundy that cannot be missed in the cellars of the most passionate wine lovers.
