Leo Alzinger's estate is located in Unterloiben, Austria, just opposite Knoll. Leo owns plots in two of the large vineyards in this part of the river valley: Loibenberg and Steinertal. Loibenberg is a towering terraced hillside, while the smaller (5.5 ha) Steinertal is more hidden and maintains a cooler microclimate. On the terraced vineyards of both sites, Riesling is grown on the higher, primary rock-rich plots, while Grüner Veltliner is grown on the lower, loamy, loess-based plots.
Leo Alzinger Jr took over the family domaine in 2002 after returning from harvesting in New Zealand. Before then he travelled to other regions to gain more experience and was fortunate enough to spend time with legendary winemaker Hans Günter Schwarz shortly before his retirement in 2002. "The most significant experience was my work in Pfalz from Müller-Catoir in the 2000 vintage. Hans Günter Schwarz revealed things to me in the cellar, small details that gave stronger impressions of the vineyard and the place. He taught me not to be afraid of contact with the skins, that good grapes will give good phenols, for example. How important the work with the lees is and many other things". The harvest at Alzinger takes place later than at some of Leo's neighbours in Unterloiben, which he attributes to the old vines and the specific exposure of his plots.
The extra time on the vine does not increase sugar levels, Leo says, but rather pushes physiological maturity into greater balance. Alzinger crushes whole clusters with a short maceration, then lets the must rest for 24 hours, dropping any green tannins. Tasting the wines alongside some of the other Wachau greats, it becomes clear that elegance and pure fruit are what Leo seeks in winemaking, rather than opulence. Alzinger's wines are never strong or assertive; instead, they are surprisingly sanguine and serenely transparent.
