Domaine Pierre Damoy is an absolute standout on the Gevrey-Chambertin scene, with a 100-year history behind it that has seen five successive generations at the helm of the family winery. Currently, it is Pierre, grandson of the namesake progenitor, who leads this reality with passion and expertise.
After taking over the family business in 1992, Pierre brought a new energy and approach to the domaine, a fact that did not escape Robert Parker's notice when he described tasting the 1993 vintage: "The Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze and Chapelle-Chambertin are the best wines produced on this estate in more than three decades." The powerful structure one might expect from appellation is evident in the wines, yet it is the overlay of that power with exceptional complexity, intensity and silky texture that makes these wines highly sought after.
The legacy of his ancestors gives Pierre access to the largest holdings in the prized Clos de Bèze vineyard, some 5.4 hectares to be exact. Historically much of the crop was sold on contract, but upon Pierre's arrival the contracts were bought back, so that today only a small amount of grapes are sold. It is this last point that ensures that the fruit used for the domaine is the absolute best, having been selected both in the vineyard and in the cellar.
Damoy resists the vogue for organic labels and integrated pest management, preferring instead to describe his vineyard management as "sustainable viticulture." Working with vines ranging from 60 to 90 years old, Pierre regularly plows his vineyards for weed control, avoids herbicides and uses copper minimally. In 2002 he completely renovated the winery and installed equipment that can handle the grapes as gently as possible. Preserving the character of each plot is of paramount importance to Damoy, and of this he says, "I am fortunate to be responsible for a great terroir. I have the responsibility to get the most out of it..."
In the winery, the grapes are destemmed and undergo a long cold maceration before fermentation. The winery has enough space to ferment grapes from each block separately, and the wines are aged for 14-18 months in 70%-100% new oak for cru and 30%-50% for village and premier cru. The wines are released without clarification or filtration.
In addition to Clos de Bèze, Domaine Pierre Damoy produces wine from Chapelle-Chambertin, Chambertin and the Clos Tamisot monopole, which is located behind the family residence. Grapes are also purchased from vineyards in Couchey and Fixin to produce a Bourgogne.
From vines that are at least 70 years old in Chapelle-Chambertin, Damoy creates a wine that, in the words of Antonio Galloni when he reviewed the 2009 vintage for Wine Advocate: "...floats on the palate with delicate red berries, flowers and sweet spices. Highly expressive, perfumed aromas intertwine, while silky tannins convey an impression of pure sensuality..."
For now, the wines of this estate remain a relatively well-kept secret, but with descriptors such as brilliant, fabulous and extremely well-balanced, it won't be long before the secret is revealed.
